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Thread: 2017 Ram Diesel vs Gas

  1. #31
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    I agree on the 17s. As for the gears, the Hemi needs to rev to build power. If you're going to need the power, get the 4.10s. Besides, who buys a Hemi for gas mileage?

    I'm glad I drive GMs. In 12 years of driving high mileage trucks I've had to replace two ball joints, and that truck had 200k on it. Never had to replace a CV axle due to failure, just a torn boot and messed up treads when doing a hub bearing.
    The puny 2500 gasser carrying the 8-6 Extreme Vee required no hub bearings, ball joints, CV axles, nothing. And it was abused for three winters. Average 30 hours of hard ass plowing on beat up driveways and fire roads per storm. Most of you deezul engine solid axle guys wouldn't believe the vehicles I recovered with my right foot even if you saw it.
    Caucasian and Confident

  2. #32
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    I personly would get the gasser. Unless you really need the diesel, it's not worth the extra coin. And after the engine is out of warrenty, if it take a dump, it is expensive to repair.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2COR517 View Post
    I agree on the 17s. As for the gears, the Hemi needs to rev to build power. If you're going to need the power, get the 4.10s. Besides, who buys a Hemi for gas mileage?

    I'm glad I drive GMs. In 12 years of driving high mileage trucks I've had to replace two ball joints, and that truck had 200k on it. Never had to replace a CV axle due to failure, just a torn boot and messed up treads when doing a hub bearing.
    The puny 2500 gasser carrying the 8-6 Extreme Vee required no hub bearings, ball joints, CV axles, nothing. And it was abused for three winters. Average 30 hours of hard ass plowing on beat up driveways and fire roads per storm. Most of you deezul engine solid axle guys wouldn't believe the vehicles I recovered with my right foot even if you saw it.
    If there ever was a misnomer, it's the solid axle naming. Not too much "solid" when ball joints are getting replaced every 40-50K miles. My 2006 3500 ,IFS now has 263K miles, tows heavy, has pushed a 9-2 Boss plow for app.7 years with it's original ball joints, all its U joints, and still going strong. Debating whether its time for a new replacement but this truck just won't die. Oh yeah, still original injectors (LBZ Dmax) and haven't done the pump rub fix yet.

  4. #34
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    Keep driving her Wayne. Drive her till it doesn't make sense to spend the money on body work each work for a sticker.

    We have 252k on the 2002 family truckster. No intention to replace it for a couple years. Yes, it needs some cosmetic bodywork. It's white which sort of forces me to have it done fairly decent. But it runs perfectly and to replace it with something newer is a minimum $30g, $70g brand new. Easy math for me.
    Caucasian and Confident

  5. #35
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    Almost 48K on my Ram 2500. Majority of the first 5K was towing a fifth wheel around and back from Kali.

    Also have a 1,000# plus plow oof the front. Added a Buckstop bumper before last winter which moved the plow forward aboot 6".

    Ball joints are fine. And Meechigan has some of the ****tiest roads in the country.

    PS Ford ball joints have been holding up well also.

    Why aren't pics allowed in the signature line?

  6. #36
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    Placed the order today,thank you all for your help.Does anyone know what Customer Preferred Package 22A is?

  7. #37
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    To update,I picked up the truck last Saturday,thank you all for your help.The truck took almost three months to come in.I do have a question about the plow,Fisher XV2,I've had to jack up and short chain my X-Blade twice,what I've noticed is the plow frame is much lower on the XV2 than the X-Blade and looking quickly,I didn't see where I could put the jack from the truck under it,in the event that I do have to short chain it any suggestions,please?

  8. #38
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    A ratchet strap can work to lift it. If there is snow on the ground you can drive into a snow bank which will lift the blade so you can short chain it.
    Caucasian and Confident

  9. #39
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    Your going to need one heck of a ratchet strap and most light towers are not strong enough to pull on.

    get yourself a highlift jack and a chain if nessary to lift it and to secure it
    if your plow doesn't have provisions to secure it in the raised posisition

  10. #40
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    Large rachet strap will work fine one end hooked to one side of the tower and the other end hooked to other side of the tower. We limped back a snapped 9.2 vxt with wings like that and it was just fine.
    If you cant run with the big dogs, then stay on the porch!!!

  11. #41
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    Like I said .......

    your going to need at least a 4" strap ...
    and few fight towers are built to take the weight.

    or get somthing you can use for other things.

    I can use the highlift to get un stuck , the ratchet strap wount be mulch help.

    good to hear et worked out for you...

  12. #42
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    When did you spec a 4" ratchet strap?

    Boss recommends using the light tower to limp home.
    Caucasian and Confident

  13. #43
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    Congrats on finally getting the truck Ron.


    Carry a come-a-long or a 3" ratchet strap. Most good 3" straps are rated around 5000 lb and that's obviously plenty to get you home.

    Most carry the strap but the come-a-long can serve more than one purpose. If you go with a strap get one long enough. 15 ft is a good size. The average 6 ft won't do it.And if (or when) you need to use it simply hook one end on the headgear on one side of the lift triangle, go under the A-frame as far forward as you can (ahead of the pin) then back up to the other side of the triangle. You can use the same path whether you're using a strap or come-a-long.

  14. #44
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    It could be a good idea to try whatever methoid you choose before you need it.
    i have two plow's from diffrent MFG'S that you can use a clamp that goes around the lift ram, to keep it from colapsing , this keeps the plow in the raised position.

  15. #45
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    B&B,thank you and everyone else for your help.Does anyone make a very short jack that can placed under the frame to lift it up?

  16. #46
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    Short bottle jack at about any hardware store. Extremely handy.

  17. #47
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    Why would you need to go buy a bottle jack when your truck cane with a jack?
    You better go try it as it will need to be a very short bottle jack.

    Quote Originally Posted by RONK View Post
    what I've noticed is the plow frame is much lower ,,,,,,I didn't see where I could put the jack from the truck under it,in the event that I do have to short chain it any suggestions,please?
    as he sayes.....
    so running it up a bank or a hi~ lift jack and a chain. or a strap they may rip or not they may lift the plow or not.


    as i sudjested whatever route ya go try it out at home first, see how it goes. before your in a storm with a dead plow.

  18. #48
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    As he said, the truck jack won't fit under the plow
    Caucasian and Confident

  19. #49
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    Pillage a scissor jack from a parts car or stop by a salvage yard and they sell you one dirt cheap if they don't give it to you free. The ones that come with most of the small front wheel drive stuff are compact and very easy to store and have plenty enough rise to chain a dead plow high enough to get it home.


    I made a couple "jack adapters" for guys in the past that allowed them to use their OEM truck jack to lift their plows that worked well. Just a short piece of square tubing (vertically) to fit over the top of the jack and some 1/4x2" strap (welded to the tubing) in the shape of a "J" to grab under the plow. Think toe jack and I think you'll get the picture. One guy used his at least three times every season (he ran Meyer stuff) and really liked it. Worked well, easy to store with the factory jack equipment behind the seat and always there when he needed it. I think I whipped that one together in about 20 minutes out of some scrap lying around so if you wanted to make one and don't have the means to do it yourself, any fab shop could do it for you even for very short money.

  20. #50
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    Uhaul "RV" Jack. IMG_0473.JPG

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  21. #51
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    Thank you all again'm going to look into all given options.My truck came with LT275/70R18 tires,I know tall and narrow are the best choice for winter tires.I'm thinking LT235/80R17 would be the best size.I'm considering two different tires,Firestone Winterforce LT or Goodyer Duratrac,is it worth it going to a dedicated winter tire?

  22. #52
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    I run 285/80/18 winterforces on a 14 Ram, excellent results.

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  23. #53
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    Basher,thank you,your past posts are the main reason that I bought the Dodge and considering the Winterforce.

  24. #54
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    The WinterForce are excellent. I have them on my daily driver, a Ford Escape and am quite pleased. Other good snow tire options are Mastercraft MSRs or Cooper Discoverer M&S. Duratracs would be very low on my list, many reports of poor treadlife too.

    As for size, the 235/80/17s are about 1 1/2 inches shorter than your current sneakers. Not a major issue although you will need to adjust the push beam on your Fisher and the speedo will be off about 5%. And they will look considerably different of course.

    I plowed with several different treads and sizes over a few years on the same truck. 235 MSRs were by far the best performing.

    A different option would be running Michelin Defender LTX M/S all year round in what ever size you like. They are great in the snow and last forever. We have them on our Yukon and are extremely pleased. Will likely be purchasing another set soon.
    Caucasian and Confident

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by RONK View Post
    Basher,thank you,your past posts are the main reason that I bought the Dodge and considering the Winterforce.
    Geeez so now I'm responsible for every issue you have with that truck, wonderful!

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  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by basher View Post
    Geeez so now I'm responsible for every issue you have with that truck, wonderful!
    Now that you mentioned it,the gas mileage is worse that I thought.The dealer swapped wheels and tires for me to 17",now I just have to decide it I go with a dedicated snow tire or not.

  27. #57
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    FWIW I have run 265-75/16's Winterforces year round for 3 years in a row now, get new ones every year.This last bunch got me 30K miles and they still had 7/32'' on them which believe it or not still fetched $150 for me on you guessed it---CL,got to love it.Anyway, awesome tires and longevity for hard running on a wonton.
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  28. #58
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    Thanks and Merry Christmas.

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