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Thread: New lifters

  1. #31
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    You got the right color but the wrong hue if Palmer would've had any say in it.

    $100 is very very reasonable for the work you got and for that number I guess it didn't get any valves or guides. Surprised they didn't want to replace at least some guides.

  2. #32
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    They did but they said that they are good.
    This is an off road toy.
    Oh sure you're street smart.


    Sesame Street Smart.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by B&B View Post
    You got the right color but the wrong hue if Palmer would've had any say in it.
    Little 3-53 would be pretty cool in there. But awfully heavy
    Caucasian and Confident

  4. #34
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    If this was a DD i would stroke.
    But the 190hp 4.0l will do.
    Oh sure you're street smart.


    Sesame Street Smart.

  5. #35
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    Ok is it better to have the injectors cleaned and refurbished Or get new ones? I can send them out for $20 00 each. Or get new ones for $45.00 each.
    Or a go a different route and put in neon injectors. For a little more cash. And have better throttle response.
    But no horsepower gains.
    Oh sure you're street smart.


    Sesame Street Smart.

  6. #36
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    Upgrade it to the Neon style injectors as they're definitely better than the original style ones they used. It will run noticeably richer for a little while but once the fuel trims bring it back in line you'll like the results.

  7. #37
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    Thanks.
    The info on some of the forums are all over the place on them.
    Oh sure you're street smart.


    Sesame Street Smart.

  8. #38
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    Got the Engine in and running today.
    Did some small changes to it. It's not a full blown stroker.
    More like a mini stroker. Had it running for about 2hrs. Before I pulled it out and roasted the 32" M/T
    By the way not a good thing with a locked rear-end.
    I did most of the stuff myself. Had a shop do the machine work.
    If i had to guess the HP is around 270-290.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Oh sure you're street smart.


    Sesame Street Smart.

  9. #39
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    A 4.0 roast 32's? I don't know, I think I'd have to see a video of that or its all just bench racing. Unless it was raining. Then yeah, I guess its theoretically possible.

  10. #40
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    I'll see if I can get a short video.
    I thought I was going to break the rear end. I had it up to 4500rpm's and let it go.
    No sand up my way to play in that's up by MarkO.
    Oh sure you're street smart.


    Sesame Street Smart.

  11. #41
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    Nov 2015
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    One of the yutes that works for me blew the motor in his Cherokee and used my shop to install a crate motor. I watch him and two other of the yutes that work for me do the removal and install. I have to say what I saw it's a real PITA since there's not much room. When it came time to fire it up it wouldn't, I suggested they check the basics (Timing, Fuel, Spark and Plug wires for firing order) but they went to forums and YouTube. They replaced Cam and Crank position sensor's had the distributor out several times, check TDC several times, etc... After a couple nights of dinking around they started to run oot of stuff to replace. After 2wks of having this coming I gave them some FOG advice again and the distributor was a couple teeth oof and two plug wires were wrong. Now it runs and the Cherokee will oot of my shop this weekend, finally......


    When I was a kid I had a CJ 5 with a 258 in it. At aboot 75k the rear main wet from a drip to a pretty bad leak and I pulled the motor and rebuilt it. The bottom end was stock but put a set of Clifford Research roller rockers, Clifford Research Cam, Clifford Research Intake, Clifford Research Headers and a Holley 390 four barrel on it. The top end mods really woke it up and it's scoot down the road pretty good, it's also pull the front tires off the ground. I was drag racing guys with 304's in CJ's and depending on the driver I was beating them from light to light. On night I was feeling little pain and ended up sucking a valve, blowing up a piston and putting a rod through the side of the block. The valve clip failed which let the valve drop, all I can think is running it up at high R's while racing cause the clip to prematurely wear/fail. So I bought a Matador Wagon with a 401 in it, bored it .030" over and build the top end up. It hauled ass but had to be gentle when launching otherwise it'd huck the driveshaft. Once I got the driveshaft's / U joint problems resolved I was spinning the AMC 20 axles at the hubs in back and snapping the front half shafts. I replaced the rear axle shafts with Summer Brothers flanged shafts and had heavier half shafts in the Dana 30 up front. Then is was snapping ring and pinons so I put a 9" Ford up front and in the rear. After aboot 4 grand and a lot of driveline failures the problem was solved. The moral of the story is when you tinker with the motor (depending how much) don't for get the driveline.

    Here's when I got it new in '81

    new.jpg

    And in '01

    not so new.jpg


    Sold it in '07 so I could fund a supercharged snowmobile build to a guy down the road.
    No matter where you go.....there you are........

  12. #42
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    Very nice cj old and rusted out ones go for crazy money around here. Would have loved to seen it.
    I didn't go to crazy on the engine.
    Crank is a AMC 232. 3.500
    Stock 4.0l 6.125" rods
    Went 15cc bigger on the piston dish
    Silvolite UEM 2229+ 0.060 on the piston bore
    Compression is 10.1
    Quench height is 0.043"
    Head gasket is vector 0.043"
    Comp cams
    Ford 24lb/hr injectors.
    Was going to go with neon injectors.
    But did a mini stroker instead of just a rebuild.
    I don't have my build sheet in front of me.
    This xj is not going to be driven on the street.
    Just the trails.
    When the rear end goes i have a ford 8.8 all ready to put in her. And a long arm. So i can head out west and down south.
    Oh sure you're street smart.


    Sesame Street Smart.

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